Crochet Pattern by B. Hooked Crochet, Copyright 2016.
Please do not copy, sell, redistribute or republish this pattern. If you wish to share this pattern, link to this page only. You may sell items produced using this pattern. Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.
This pattern is written in US crochet terms
Gather Your Supplies
- 2 skeins Mary Maxim Tropical Breeze Sock Yarn, Puddle Jumper, approx 875 yds.
- 3.25 mm Crochet Hook
- Darning Needle
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Gauge and Sizing
12 sts x 12 rows = 2″ worked in front post double crochet
The yoga socks made exactly from this pattern will fit comfortably on someone who wears a size 6.5 to 7.5 ladies shoe. You can easily make adjustments to the pattern to fit your foot. Instructions on where to make changes are included in the pattern and video tutorial.
Laying flat the yoga sock measures approximately 13.5″ long and 4.5″ wide.
- Ch – Chain
- Fpdc – Front Post Double Crochet
- Ws – Woven Stitch *see stitch description
To print a list of all crochet abbreviations to keep in your crochet notebook, check out my quick guide here:
Ws – YO and insert hook into designated stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on hook). Pull the last loop through the middle loop on your hook, YO and pull through the remaining two loops. YO and insert hook into the same stitch (three loops on hook). Pull the last loop through the remaining two loops on your hook. Skip one stitch and repeat.
This pattern is worked from the toe upwards. When following the pattern below, you will end up with the size listed in the gauge and sizing section. Pay close attention to the highlighted sections in the written pattern. They will help guide you through the adjustments needed to fit your foot. The video tutorial also points out these areas.
How to Crochet Yoga Socks with Brittany
This video is also available in a left handed version. Click here to be directed to the left handed tutorial on YouTube.
Bottom-Up Design : Foot
Round 1: Ch 48. Join with a slst to the first chain to form a ring. Dc in every chain. Don’t Join, continue to work in spiral.
[alert-note]Make sure this ring fits comfortably around your foot. It should rest just behind the ball of your foot. See image above for guidance.[/alert-note]
Rounds 2-12: Make one fpdc for every stitch, continuing to work in spiral.
[alert-note]You may need to make fewer or add more rounds to adjust the sizing. Crochet your tube so that it reaches the middle of your arch before proceeding with the next instruction.[/alert-note]
Rounds 13-15: Make 2 fpdc in the first stitch and one fpdc for the other stitches. Continue to work in spiral.
Rounds 16-18: Make one fpdc for every stitch, continuing to work in spiral.
[alert-note]You may need to make fewer or add more rounds to adjust the sizing. Crochet your tube so it reaches the front of your ankle bone before proceeding with the next instruction.[/alert-note]
Round 19: Fpdc in first 15 sts. Ch 21, skip 21 sts. Fpdc around post of 22nd stitch. Fpdc around remaining 15 stitches.
[alert-note]If you’ve adjusted any previous part of this pattern, you will have different stitch counts than listed here. To determine where to make your heel, fold the tube in half and lay it flat. Mark the stitch on each fold with a stitch marker. Fpdc to your first stitch marker, chain and skip the number of stitches to the next stitch marker. Fpdc until you’ve reached the beginning of the round.[/alert-note]
Round 20: Fpdc around first 15 sts. Dc in each chain. Fpdc around remaining 15 sts.
[alert-note]Your stitch count will vary here too if you’ve made sizing adjustments. Be sure to fpdc around every fpdc and dc in each chain.[/alert-note]
Rounds 21-25: Fpdc around every stitch.
[alert-note]You may need to make fewer or add more rounds to adjust the sizing. Crochet your tube so it reaches the top of your ankle bone before proceeding with the next instruction.[/alert-note]
Round 26: Fpdc around first 24 sts. Make 2 fpdc around 25th stitch. Fpdc around remaining 26 sts. Make a slst in the next stitch to account for the height difference in the rows resulted from working in a spiral.
[alert-note]If you’ve adjusted any previous part of this pattern, you will have difference stitch counts than listed here. The purpose of this increase is to obtain an even stitch count. If you have an even number of stitches, you do not need to do this step. If you have an odd number of stitches, make a single increase in a stitch behind the heel.[/alert-note]
Work a ws in every other stitch in a spiral fashion until your calf measures 10″ long. On your last round, in the last stitch, slst to account for the height difference in the rows resulted from working in a spiral.
Fasten off and weave in your ends.