crochet heart

Puffy Crochet Heart

This post is sponsored by Yarnspirations

crochet heart

Crochet Pattern by B. Hooked Crochet, Copyright 2017.

Please do not copy, sell, redistribute or republish this pattern. If you wish to share this pattern, link to this page only. You may sell items produced using this pattern. Do NOT use the copyrighted photos for your product listing.

This pattern is written in US crochet terms

Gather Your Supplies

  • Lily’s Sugar ‘n Cream Cotton, (Rose Pink & Ecru shown), approx 30 yds total
  • 3.5 mm Crochet Hook
  • Poly fiber stuffing or uncooked rice
  • Stitch Marker
  • Darning needle
  • Scissors

Disclosure: Please note that the links below are affiliate links, and at no additional cost to you, I will earn a small commission if you decide to purchase your supplies online. Please understand that I have experience with these products and I recommend them because they are optimal for this pattern, not because of the small commissions I make if you decide to buy them online. If you have received valuable information from me at any point, this is one easy way to pay it forward and say thank you for a job well done!




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Gauge and Sizing

4.5 sts x 5 rounds = 1″ working in single crochet rounds

Your finished heart will measure approximately 4″ wide (at the widest part) and 4″ long. Thickness will vary depending on how much you stuff it.

Abbreviations

  • Rep – Repeat
  • Sc – Single Crochet
  • Sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Together (decrease)** see stitch description
  • Sts – Stitches
  • YO – Yarn Over

To print a list of all crochet abbreviations to keep in your crochet notebook, check out my quick guide here:

Crochet Abbreviations Quick Guide

Stitch Description:

Sc2tog – insert hook in designated stitch, YO and pull up a loop. Insert hook into next stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on hook). YO and pull through all three loops. One decrease made.

Pattern Notes

The puffy crochet heart is worked from the top down, crocheting the “humps” as two separate pieces. The humps are then joined together and crocheted as one piece. You will need to use a stitch marker to keep track of your rounds.

Each “hump” begins with the magic ring. If you are unfamiliar with this technique, I recommend checking out my beginner guide to the magic ring:

How to Crochet the Magic Ring

If you have trouble with the magic ring you can use a different method to accomplish the same goal:

Alternate Magic Ring Method

Stuff your puffy crochet heart with poly-fil for a soft stuffy to give to someone speacial; attach a key chain or a ring to attach to a bag or even fill it with uncooked rice to make a hand warmer!

How To Crochet the Puffy Crochet Heart 

This video is also available in a left handed version. Click here to be directed to the left handed tutorial on YouTube.

Written Instructions

Heart “hump” – make two using color A

Round 1: Make a magic ring (or alternative method) with 6 sc. Do not join, continue to work in spiral.

Round 2: Make 2 sc in every stitch. (12 sts)

Round 3: Sc in first stitch, 2 sc in next. *Sc in next stitch, 2 sc in next. Rep from * around. (18 sts)

Rounds4-7: Make one sc in every stitch. (18 sts)

Fasten off after first hump. Do not fasten off after second hump.

Join the heart humps

Lay the heart humps side-by-side. With your working yarn coming from the second hump, sc in the stitch right next to your bind off of hump one. Mark that as your first stitch of the round.

Heart Body – continue color A

Round 8: Make one sc in every stitch around each of the humps. When you transition to the second hump, be sure you are not skipping a stitch. (36 sts)

Round 9: Make one sc in every stitch. On last stitch, work a partial sc by YO and pull up a loop. Hold the stitch here. (36 sts)

Round 10: Release color A but do not bind off. Fasten on color B and pull that through your partial stitch from the previous round (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in each of the next 4 sts, then Sc2tog. Rep from * around. On last stitch, work a partial sc2tog –  insert hook into second to last stitch, YO and pull up a loop. Insert hook into last stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on hook) Hold the stitch here. Six decreases made. (30 sts)

Round 11: Drop color B and pick up color A. Finish last stitch – YO with color A and pull through all three loops on your hook (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in each stitch. On last stitch, work a partial sc by YO and pull up a loop. Hold the stitch here. (30 sts)

Round 12: Release color A but do not bind off. Fasten on color B and pull that through your partial stitch from the previous round (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in each of the next 3 sts, then Sc2tog. Rep from * around. On last stitch, work a partial sc2tog –  insert hook into second to last stitch, YO and pull up a loop. Insert hook into last stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on hook) Hold the stitch here. Six decreases made. (24 sts)

Round 13: Drop color B and pick up color A. Finish last stitch – YO with color A and pull through all three loops on your hook (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in each stitch. On last stitch, work a partial sc by YO and pull up a loop. Hold the stitch here. (24 sts)

Round 14: Release color A but do not bind off. Fasten on color B and pull that through your partial stitch from the previous round (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in each of the next 2 sts, then Sc2tog. Rep from * around. On last stitch, work a partial sc2tog –  insert hook into second to last stitch, YO and pull up a loop. Insert hook into last stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on hook) Hold the stitch here. Six decreases made. (18 sts)

Round 15: Drop color B and pick up color A. Finish last stitch – YO with color A and pull through all three loops on your hook (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in each stitch. On last stitch, work a partial sc by YO and pull up a loop. Hold the stitch here. (18 sts)

Round 16: Release color A but do not bind off. Fasten on color B and pull that through your partial stitch from the previous round (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in next stitch, then Sc2tog. Rep from * around. On last stitch, work a partial sc2tog –  insert hook into second to last stitch, YO and pull up a loop. Insert hook into last stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on hook) Hold the stitch here. Six decreases made. (12 sts)

Round 17: Drop color B and pick up color A. Finish last stitch – YO with color A and pull through all three loops on your hook (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in each stitch. On last stitch, work a partial sc by YO and pull up a loop. Hold the stitch here. (12 sts)

Round 18: Release color A but do not bind off. Fasten on color B and pull that through your partial stitch from the previous round (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc2tog. Rep from * around. On last stitch, work a partial sc2tog –  insert hook into second to last stitch, YO and pull up a loop. Insert hook into last stitch, YO and pull up a loop (three loops on hook) Hold the stitch here. Six decreases made. (6 sts)

Round 19: Drop color B and pick up color A. Finish last stitch – YO with color A and pull through all three loops on your hook (your first stitch of the round will be the next sc you make). *Sc once in each stitch. On last stitch, work a partial sc by YO and pull up a loop. Hold the stitch here. (6 sts)

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